I had the chance to participate in online media journalist seminar ‘’Speak Up Europe’’ in Paris, hosted by Cafe Babel. Being music journalist, my senses was sharp to discover the music bar scene in Paris. Yes, I got a solid impression and the taste of Belgium beer still touches my taste buds! Divided in groups for ‘’Reporting on the ground’’, I got in the right one. The subject of our group was ‘’Backstage life of Montmartre bars’’ (the article is in French, written by Thomas Laborde. I still need to finish mine). We got five hours to get our information for a story.
Bad weather brought us down the earth – you can hear some good world music stuff or sweet soul music in metro for some cents. Otherwise you search for shelter and for a cafe la creme in a bar. The sound of Paris bars in daytime is retro soundtrack from the forties to seventies. Well known international stars like Bob Dilan or Elviss Presley or Beach Boys goes along with the best of French musicians Serge Gainsbourg or Jacques Dutronc.
In the afternoon, specially on Monday, cafes and bars of Montmartre are peaceful places for work or to have a smalltalk. And also the waitress of bar Clair de Lune has free time to join the conversation. She explains that the soundtrack of Paris is changing during the 24 Hours: it’s depending of the person, that works behind the bar. Early in the Morning we try to put jazz, but then in the afternoon it’s going to be more cool, but in the night something completely different. In the evening people need some energy as from their drinks, and also from music. If suddenly a buss stopped and the bar become full with party people willing to dance, of course the soundtrack would change immediately. Yeah, waitress has sense for different kinds of vibes.
The leader 
of our research group was Thomas – Frenchman who lives in Paris for seven years and knows the bar scene well: Paris is getting older. The people are saying – there are too much noise in the streets, so the bars should be closed. I knew a lot of Bars in Pigalle that never close. You could come at 6 in the morning and stay there till 11. I got to know, where to have party and where will you move after it. Some of bars opens only at 5 in the mornig and are welcoming the party people. But Paris is not the right city to go, if you wanna have great nightlife. Louder, louder, louder, but then it stops. People prefer to listen to music rather to make the strangers their new friends or people are just too stoned to make friends.
Paris shares love for indie rock music and electronic. You can also easy find a rock’n’roll or reggae or jazz bar, if
you like. It’s quite often that famous indie band musicians like Graham Coxon from ‘’Blur’’ is doing his undercover DJ set at one of Parisian bars. If you’re at their right place, you can hear them or meet them or just see them. Like near the concert hall ‘’La Cigale’’ you can find a bar ‘’La Fourmi’’, sometimes visited by famous musicians like ‘’Radiohead’’. Are you excited? Let’s go for a walk!
And I did. Later. On Tuesday. I was hosted by ex indie music DJ Gonzalo. Right how he is daddy and passionate by different languages. But back then his indie club life was very intense and colorful. Back then luck was on his side – he received tickets again and again, that brought him contacts and good relationships with the club owners. Paris is a small city, everybody knows everybody – he told me. Although last year he managed to hear 340 concerts!
Gonzalo has a lot of amazing stories in his pocket: Once around the end of year 2001, band ‘’The Strokes’’ gave a concert in one of Parisian indie clubs. Julian Casablancas was crowdsufring and lost his driving license. He was angry and disappointed, because he needed it to get back to the States. The club owner told him – don’t worry and went for some phone calls. And Julian’s driving license was found and the finder received life long ticket for ‘’The Strokes’’ concerts. Other time Gonzalo and his buddies was ‘’babysitting’’ Bjork during her visit in Paris. And then he got the surprising opportunity to fly to NY for Rolling Stones concert. All for free! Gonzalo advised me to check out the famous indie music clubs: ‘’Pop in’’, ‘’Truskel’’, ‘’The Motel’’, ‘’The International’‘ and played me some indie stuff – French, Belgium, American and so on. You must hear Emilian Torini or ‘’Noir Desire’’!
But did you know, that the duo ‘’Air’’ isn’t so popular in France? French people do not understand, why they have to sing in English. But still there are a lot of foreign newcomers, that hope to find their success under Parisian indie lable. Paris will teach you, how to enjoy yourself! Are you ready for this challenge? Can you manage yourself a gig in small Parisian bar and play for relaxed crowd. Yes, dear, you can!
Aiga Leitholde
Muzikālas piezīmes 